Outdoors with Karolina

Tarfside is one of those inconspicuous places on the map. Car park, few houses, pay phone, school, church, public house. Oh wait, public house is not even on the map, I went straight to the spoilers. But if noone told you what Tarfside really is, you could have walked just straight through the village without paying any attention to it. Like I did in 2023. But I will tell you everything about it- if you ever find yourself on The Great Outdoors Challenge, passing through Tarfside- you will know exactly why it is a hotspot amongst the challengers. Just stay with me as I walk you quickly through my day before arriving at the village.

Another day started by Loch Muick. Coffee, porridge, toilet… Have I actually mentioned toilet at the Glas Allt Shiel? As said in my previous post Glas Allt Shiel is a bothy, little outhouse at Royal Family’s property. Probably there only so you could come back from your trip and tell your friends that you slept in King Charles’ holiday home. Or something along those lines. Anyway- back to the toilet. Most of the bothies just have a shovel provided- so you can go outside, dig your hole and do your business. But some of the bothies do actually have loos- when you can go inside, lock the door, squat over the whole and flush the business with a bucket of water. And trust me- after days of digging a hole or frantically running around trying to find that spot for digging- it is a luxury! And there is a toilet at Glas Allt Shiel, there must be- imagine Charles arriving for his Highland break and finding out hard way that someone ran out of time to dig the hole…

The path alongside the Loch Muick to Spittal of Glenmuick and the Visitor Centre is nothing but pleasant. Nice track next to the loch, surrounded by majestic mountains. I even spotted a herd of deer just past the boathouse. Just magical! I have left Glas Allt Shiel before 8am, and there was noone else on the track yet. No people heading towards Lochnagar, no cyclists. Just me and the path. Remoteness. Vastness. Infinitude. That was, before I arrived at the Visitor Centre. Still too early for it to be open, toilets locked as well, but I made the use of sockets outside and promptly plugged my phone in while having a snack.

Caroline, who I met the day before, reached the Visitor Centre not long after me. But somehow rangers, just arriving at work, weren’t too happy with her phone being charged there. They mentioned those sockets being used for charging the bikes or something like that. Come on, really?

Path from Visitor Centre towards Shielin of Mark becomes way more rugged compared to one alongside Loch Muick and at some point even disappears from the map but still is easy enough to follow- if you go alongside the stream. And once you cross the bog (not a bad one, thankfully!) and get to top of the hill, you can clearly see the bothy. Easy work!

After a short break at the bothy, I took all the layers off as the clouds dispered and sun took their place in the sky. Once again- little bit of pathless ascent towards Muckle Cairn from where it was a steep descent towards Glen Lee. And once at Glen Lee, walking was easy again- wide track, basically flat with a stunning view. It would be absolutely perfect if it wasn’t so hot again. Walking alongside Loch Lee I was contemplating a quick dip. Yet, I wanted to get to Tarfside and couldn’t really be bothered to get off the track just to find a spot with better access to the water.

Soon I’ve arrived at the car park that I remembered from last year when I came down Mount Keen. On the other side of that car park is a gate. On a gate there is an arrow and one word. ‘Tarfside’. You open the gate, excited you are almost there but you still have almost three miles to go. Step after step, feeling more and more tired, more and more dehydrated, you slowly walk towards Tarfside. This is the real definition of ‘so close, yet so far’. Oh, if you spot the golden eagle just before reaching the village, it may make you forget how much your feet hurt.

But somehow, you did make it. And you know to go to Church first. You heard me right. Ann and Alvar Thorn, are looking after St Drostan’s Church but even more importantly- they are looking after the Challengers. And the table at St Drostan’s is always full. From homemade cakes, fruit, tea, coffee to freshly made bacon or egg butties (egg and bacon if you ask nicely!), all just for a little donation. You can also use a shower while you there which is absolutely wonderful. Ann and Alvar are diamonds- there is also accommodation in the church if you want to treat yourself. But if not- you head with everyone else towards Village Green where everyone is camping. Again- how wonderful is it, that we are just allowed to do that? That Tarfside community just decided- ‘Hey, stay here with us! We don’t mind twenty tents in a middle of our village. After all, it’s only once a year!’

But that’s not all! Every year, the local pub opens its doors for Challengers. Mason Arms, I think this is how its called? (can fellow challengers remind me the name please?) With burgers on the barbecues and cheap booze- this is the one night for Challengers to remember. And the one not to miss. Thankfully, the village green is just across the road, while whisky shots are only two pounds.

If you walk through Tarfside, just stop and enjoy it, that camping spot by the river is not worth it.

Route taken: Glas Allt Shiel- Spittal of Glenmuick- Shielin of Mark- Stables of Lee- Loch Lee- Auchronie- Tarfside (29.6km)